Thanks. I suspect that furnace would work fine running down the road,
but I did not need it. The dash heat was enough, if I started the trip
with the coach warm.
I will go out tomorrow (it's supposed to be below freezing) and fire up
this furnace and see if I can find if/where it blows into the bay. Do
you have any idea where in the bay the vent is located? I *think* all
my furnace ducts are on the port (driver's) side of the coach, with the
possible exception of the toilet room.
As I understand your comments, there is no need for the cold weather
package and bay heater/tank pads as long as you keep the furnace running
at the camp ground. I always use the furnace for heat when dry
camping. But, I have been known to use electric space heaters when
connected to shore power. I also put one in the bay, since I doubt that
it would keep warm without the forced air furnace running.
I think I will purchase one ofthese
<http://www.rvwholesalers.com/catalog/back-seat-heat_plus-08-0042.html>,
as I found on the group Parts List. I haven't looked to see if it is
"pre wired" but I do not have a switch or indicator light that I have
found in the coach. But the batteries are not far away, and a good 12
vdc relay should work for control.
Do you think my solution of one of the Back Seat Heaters in cargo bay
(sans LP Furnace) while running down the road (running off engine
alternator/battery) and then switch over to LP Furnace (sans Back Seat
Heater) while parked (dry camping) would be an appropriate approach to
this problem? I know that I won't have the holding tank pads, but
consensus is that won't be needed, normally.
Again, thanks to all who have responded.
-Rick N.
1997 320ft Dynasty, 325 Cummins
On 3/20/2013 9:38 PM, Bill Duckwitz wrote:
>
> Rick,
>
> A few points.
>
> A, the furnace works fine running down the
> road. You are correct, running space heaters off
> the inverter doesn't make sense.
>
> The furnace is already ducted to the wet bay.
>
> You can easily run the furnace off the batteries
> at night when dry camping. When you come off the
> road they should be charged and then if you run
> the generator set during the evening for dinner
> and a little TV then the batteries should be
> sufficiently changed to run the furnace over
> night. I have done it several times.
>
> The Monaco position is that if you keep the coach
> comfortable for living, 68-72?, the plumbing is
> safe. That was their position in the ninety's.
>
> Bill D. 94 Dynasty with furnace.
>
> At 04:31 PM 3/20/2013, you wrote:
> >Phil,
> >
> >Thank you for your on point response. I don't have the aqua hot. I
> >also have not used my (propane) forced air furnace while driving.
> >
> >Of course I use the furnace when I reach my destination, especially if I
> >am dry camping. It is ridiculous to run the inverter to power a 120
> >Volt electric heater! When I'm connected to shore power, I do put a
> >small electric heater in the bay. Remote thermometer shows it never
> >drops below 45. I suspect the snap disk might be better than the cheap
> >electric space heater's thermostat, but this works for now.
> >
> >I would like to hear from someone regarding how they keep the area warm
> >when dry camping at night, if they don't have the heated bay option. I
> >suppose some might put a light bulb in there, and run it off the
> >batteries (via the inverter). I was hoping that there might be some
> >heat from the forced air furnace, but I don't see any. My furnace is
> >under the cooktop in the kitchen, quite a ways from the wet bay. I
> >don't think it is close enough to provide heat without a forced air vent.
> >
> >I tend to agree that the holding tanks won't likely freeze while in
> >motion, as long as they are not right at freezing from the night
> >before. You are correct that the plumbing is most likely to freeze.
> >
> >I'm guessing there are not many members here who have water in their
> >coach in sub zero weather, whether actually living in them, or simply
> >ready for departure or return from a trip. I have winterized 3 times
> >this winter already, and still have 2 more months before I can feel safe
> >about not winterizing without heat.
> >
> >Maybe I'll look into adding a branch off the forced air vent going to
> >the bedroom, and dump it into the bay, for nights when I'm dry camping.
> >I agree that 30 Amps to heat the area off batteries is too much. But 30
> >amps while driving down the road shouldn't be. Should it?
> >
> > -Rick N.
> >1997 32-ft Dynasty, 325 Cummins
> >On 3/20/2013 12:21 PM, Phil Schoner wrote:
> > >
> > > I have often wondered what keeps my service bay from freezing when
> I drive
> > > in very cold (10-30 degree) weather. Don't know, but it has never
> > > happened. My 07 Dynasty has a service bay heater connected to my
> aqua hot
> > > system, but I am pretty sure it does not operate while driving
> (but maybe
> > > it does?) I do have the option of using engine heat to heat my
> aqua hot
> > > fluid which I can then use to heat the cabin if needed while
> driving. I
> > > have done this a few times, and I suppose this would also heat the
> service
> > > bay while driving. The heater in the service bay is set to come on at
> > > about 45 degrees. I do not run the diesel furnace while driving,
> even in
> > > very cold weather.
> > >
> > > When I overnight in very cold weather I put a space heater with a
> > > thermostat on the driver side of my service bay. I need this
> because the
> > > aqua hot heater is on the other side, and does not keep the driver
> side
> > > warm enough.
> > >
> > > I would not be concerned with freezing your water tanks while driving.
> > > Water motion as you drive and heat capacity of water in tanks will not
> > > allow this. Concern should be in freezing any water lines in your
> system.
> > >
> > > Phil 07 Dynasty
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >------------------------------------
> >
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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